Start by crossing the two sticks or dowels at perpendicular or
90 degree angles.
Make a Clove Hitch on the vertical stick or dowel near the
point where the two sticks cross. This fastens the rope to the
stick.
Weave the rope under and over the crossed sticks alternately.
To do this, run the rope over the horizontal bar, around behind the
vertical bar, then back over the face of the horizontal bar on the
left. Tighten snugly, then bring the rope behind the vertical bar and
up the right front side of the horizontal bar. Repeat this three or
four times, keeping the rope tight.
When you have finished weaving the lashing, then "FRAP" it by
wrapping the rope between the poles (in front of the back stick and in
back of the front stick), pulling tightly. This tightens the connected
poles.
Finish your lashing with another Clove
Hitch.
Diagonal Lashing
Use Diagonal lashing is used to bind poles
together that cross each other but do not touch when their ends are
lashed in place in a structure.
Comments The
diagonal lashing gets its name from the fact that the wrapping turns
cross the poles diagonally. The diagonal lashing can be used to bind
poles that cross each other from 90o to 45o. If the angle between the
poles is less than 45o a shear lashing should be used. The diagonal
lashing makes use of the timber hitch to pull poles together that are
not touching each other. The timber hitch allows the poles to be drawn
together without changing the relative positions of the poles. [NOTE] If
a square lashing were used to bind poles that do not touch, the
beginning clove hitch would pull the cross pole toward the clove hitch
causing unnecessary bowing of the cross pole and could also produce a
force that would act along the length of the pole to which the clove
hitch is tied. These additional forces, if strong enough, can place
unnecessary strain on other lashing within the structure causing the
structure to twist and
fail.
Instructions
Tie a timber hitch diagonally around both
poles.
Start the wrapping turns on the opposite diagonal to the timber
hitch, by pulling the rope tight so that the poles contact each
other.
Take 3 to 4 wrapping turns; keep the wrapping turns parallel;
pull each wrapping turn tight. [NOTE] If the wrapping turns are
allowed to cross, the increased friction between the strands of the
rope will make it difficult to tighten the wrapping
turns.
Start the second set of wrapping turns by going past and around
the vertical pole. [NOTE] Going around the pole the rope allows the
direction of the rope to be changed without crossing the first set of
wrapping diagonally.
Take 3 to 4 wrapping turns; be sure to keep the wrapping turns
parallel; pull each wrapping turn tight.
Start the frapping turns by going past and around one of the
poles. [NOTE] Going around the pole with the rope allows the direction
of the rope to be changed without crossing the wrapping turns
diagonally.
Take 2 to 3 frapping turns; keep the frapping turns parallel.
Be sure to pull each turn tight.
End the lashing with a clove hitch. Take the first half hitch
of the clove hitch by going past and then around one of the poles.
Lock the half hitch tight against the lashing by working it
tight.
Take a second half hitch around the
pole.
Work the second half hitch tight against the first half hitch
so that the clove hitch is locked against the
lashing.
Note If very smooth rope is used, the lashing
can be made more secure by adding a third or forth half hitch to the
clove hitch.
Tripod Lashing
Description A shear lashing around 3 poles.
Use To bind three poles together, for the
construction of a tripod. To bind three poles together that contact at
the same point in a structure.
Comments The tripod lashing is a shear lashing
that binds three poles together at the same point. The tripod lashing
gets it name from the fact that its most common use is the construction
of a tripod. The tripod lashing can be used just about any where in a
structure that three poles cross each other at the same point and the
same time in the sequence of construction. Tripod lashing takes two main
forms; with racked wrapping turns (the rope is woven between the poles)
and with plain wrapping turns (the rope is wrapped around the poles
without weaving the rope between the poles). When the lashing is made
with racking turns the rope contacts each pole around its entire
circumference ; this contact makes the tripod lashing with racking turns
the most secure form of tripod lashing: therefore tripod lashing with
racking turns should be used when safety is important. However, for
light structures where there would be no danger if the lashing slipped,
the faster to tie tripod lashing with plain wrapping turns may be
used.
Laying Out The Poles For most tripod lashings,
lay the pole side by side with the butt ends aligned. The alignment of
the butts of the pole insures that the tripod legs are the desired
length
Note The practice of laying the center pole in
the opposite direction to the outside poles creates several problems.
When the poles are laid in opposite directions the wrappings must be put
on loosely so that when the center pole is rotated to its proper
position the lashing is tightened around the poles. If the wrappings are
put on too tight, the rope is stretched causing damage to the rope
fibers, therefore weakening the lashing. On the other hand, if the rope
is wrapped two loosely, the lashing will not tighten enough when the
center pole is rotated and the lashing will be able to slip along the
length of the pole. Either way, the rope to loose or the rope too tight,
a dangerous situation is created.
Setting Up A Tripod Set up the tripod by crossing
the outside poles so that the cross point of the poles is under the
center pole. Crossing the outside poles under the center pole causes
part of the load that is placed on the tripod to be taken up by the wood
to wood contact of the poles.
Japanese Square Lashing
Step 1
Step 2
Step 3
Step 4
Comments:
A lashing used in lightweight construction work.
It is equivalent to a Square Lashing. and when done correctly
should be just as strong.
Much quicker to do than a Square Lashing.
The knot is finished off with a Reef Knot.
A shear lashing around 3 poles.
Filipino Diagonal Lashing
Step 1
Step 2
Step 3
Step 4
Comments:
A
lashing used in lightweight construction work.
Start
with the middle of the rope, tucking the running ends through the
middle "loop" after going round both spars. Use the "loop" to pull the
spars together.
Now
proceed as for a diagonal lashing taking the running end round both
spars, keeping both ends together.
Separate
the ends and take frapping turns between the spars, pulling the rope
tight as you do so.
Complete
the frapping turns and finish off with a reef (square) knot.
Round Lashing
Comments:
Used to
lash two poles together (constructing a flagpole).
Tie a
clove hitch round the bottom pole.
Wind the
rope around both six or seven times.
Finish
with two half hitches round both poles.
The
lashing can be tightened by driving a small wooden peg between the
poles.
If
possible force a wedge under the lashings to make them really tight.
If the spars are vertical, bang the wedge in downwards.
Shear Lashing
Comments: A sheer lashing is often used to
bind adjacent poles together. It is also a good way to reinforce a
broken or weak pole. The frapping turns used to tighten the lashing may
be omitted and replaced with wedges inserted between the
poles.
A loose
Sheer Lashing made around the ends of two poles will allow the poles
to be opened out and used as an A-frame. It can also be used to form a
tripod just like the Figure-of-eight lashing.
Lay
out the poles. For most lashings you will want to lay the poles side
by side with the butt ends aligned (thicker ends).
Tie a
clove hitch around one of the outside poles and secure the standing
part by wrapping it around the running part (or trap it under the
first turns). Note: If you only lashing two poles together it may
be better to simply tie the clove hitch around both poles and pull
tight.
Pass
the rope around the poles to form a first turn.
Pulling each turn tight made a series of turns until the
lashing is at least as long as the combined diameters of the two
poles (usually a set of 4 to 6 turns will be sufficient).
Tighten the lashing with a frapping turn by taking the rope
down between two poles at one end of the turns. This should be
difficult to do if the turns have been pulled tightly (as they
should be). Bring the rope back up between the poles at the other
end of the lashing and pull tight. Repeat 2 or 3 times.
Start
the second set of frapping turns by taking the rope around the
centre pole and frapping. Take the second set of frapping turns in
the opposite direction to the first set.
Repeat
for any additional poles.
Pass
the rope once more between the poles then around one pole and tuck
it under itself to form a half hitch. Pull this tight and make a
second half hitch forming a clove hitch by taking the rope around
the same pole and tucking it under itself.
Notes on A-Frame Lashing: An A-frame
lashing or Sheer Legs is made in the same way as a Sheer Lashing with
the lashing and frapping turns made slightly loose so that the poles
can be opened out. It is often used to raise a boat mast or to form
the legs of a rope bridge. You must take care to ensure that the legs
of the frame do not slip.
Notes on Tripods: Make a tripod
by using a Figure-of-eight lashing on three poles. Set up the tripod
by crossing the outside poles so that the cross point of the poles is
under the centre pole. This makes sure that part of the load is taken
by the wood in contact.
If a
symmetrical arrangement of the poles is needed within a structure the
tripod can be set up by rotating the poles around the lashing. This
means that the load is supported only by the ropes and the joint
becomes flexible and so the tripod may become unstable.
Splices
Back Splice or End Splice
A simple
and effective method of finishing the end of a rope in which a crown
knot is made with the strands at the end which are then spliced back
into the rope.
Eye Splice
A method of
putting a permanent eye in the end of a rope. The strands are unlaid, a
loop of suitable size formed and the three strands are spliced or worked
in and out of the rope, usually under and over. Three "tucks" are
normally taken.
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